This paper introduces a novel method for weaving 3D shell-shaped fabrics directly on the loom by using the Variable Reed, a hardware modification that allows variable dent positioning along the warp. With this reed, we weave discontinuous wefts (partial weft rows) and then apply different curved profiles to the weft yarns to dynamically alter the angle between the warp and weft during weaving. This technique enables the fabric to be folded and deformed into a 3D surface after it is removed from the loom. We demonstrate our method using a series of 3D woven samples and provide a computational design tool for creating 3D shell-shaped fabrics from an input surface, illustrated by examples of a wing and a half-dome. Our approach can be used to produce 3D-shaped woven fabric for garments, upholstery, architecture, and composites.

The increasing emphasis on sustainable practices in HCI requires the development of new materials-based approaches for fabrication, which consider degradation and recycling. In particular, textile products containing rigid elements are usually hard to recycle since they are assembled from different materials, which must be disassembled before recycling. We introduce a novel method for fabricating knitted textile objects containing both soft and rigid segments using PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol). PVA is a biodegradable synthetic material that dissolves in water. When exposed to a controlled amount of water and dried, the textile hardens and becomes rigid. We contribute a hardening method and protocol. Additionally, we present methods to achieve selective hardening by using intarsia knitting with two types of PVA. After being subjected to the hardening protocol, one type of PVA hardens while the other remains soft. To illustrate the potential, capabilities, and applications, a series of selectively hardened knitted objects are presented.